This is a list of some of my favourite places in Istanbul, my hometown. I’ve included a few obvious touristic spots because some of them are too good to skip, but most of this is what I recommend when friends ask me where to go. Istanbul changes quickly, so make sure to double-check that places are open and book ahead where needed.
Eating
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Çiya Sofrası
One of my favourite Turkish restaurants, right in Kadıköy. Musa Dağdeviren has spent decades documenting regional dishes and recipes from around Turkey, almost like a food archaeologist. Go with a group and try as much as you can.
Petek Büfe
Tiny old-school büfe next to Galata Tower. Get a döner here before or after visiting the tower.
Hamdi Restaurant
Old Istanbul kebab restaurant in Eminönü with a great view over the Golden Horn. Book upstairs if you can and go hungry.
Karaköy Güllüoğlu
The historic Karaköy Güllüoğlu and still the place I would send someone for baklava. Get a mixed plate and eat it there with tea.
Asmalı Cavit
One of the best ways to do a proper meyhane night. Get a table full of meze, fish or meat, and rakı, then stay out around Asmalımescit afterwards.
Pandeli
Hidden upstairs inside Mısır Çarşısı. Beautiful blue-tiled room, old-school Turkish food, and a good lunch stop while exploring Eminönü.
Neolokal
If you want one high-end meal, this is the one. Maksut Aşkar’s Neolokal is inside SALT Galata, doing modern takes on Anatolian food without turning it into a gimmick. Book ahead.
Zıpkın, Arnavutköy
For a Bosphorus dinner, go to Arnavutköy and eat at Zıpkın. Fish, meze and rakı. Walk along the water before or after.
Emek Cafe, Yeniköy
Simple cafe on the Bosphorus in Yeniköy. Go for breakfast, order menemen and tea, then walk along the water.
Walking Around
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Kadıköy and Moda
Spend at least half a day here. Start around the Kadıköy market, eat at Çiya, then slowly make your way through Moda and down to the waterfront. This is one of the best parts of the city for just walking around without a plan.
Karaköy and Galata
Start by the water in Karaköy and walk uphill through Galata towards Beyoğlu. Stop at Güllüoğlu, SALT Galata, Petek and the tower along the way.
Cihangir
Spend an hour or two wandering around Cihangir with no real destination. The streets are full of small cafes, old apartment buildings, antique shops and cats. Stop for a coffee somewhere that looks good and keep walking.
Visiting
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Istanbul Modern
The main contemporary art museum in Istanbul, in its new waterfront building in Karaköy. Easy to combine with a Karaköy and Galata day.
Yerebatan Sarnıcı
Very touristic, still absolutely worth it. The huge Byzantine underground cistern is one of the strangest spaces in the city, and the restoration made it much better.
The Old City with Antonina
If you want to see the old city properly, book a tour with Antonina instead of wandering around with a generic guidebook. They work with archaeologists and art historians and I have used them many times. They are excellent.
Mısır Çarşısı and Kapalıçarşı
Both are touristic and both are worth seeing. Do not approach them as shopping destinations you need to complete. Wander around, get lost, check the old hans and side streets, and move on when you have had enough.
Galata Tower
Yes, it is touristic. Still go up. Istanbul makes much more sense when you see the geography from above.
SALT Galata
Beautiful building, free exhibitions and an excellent research library. It is right on the Karaköy and Galata route, so there is no reason not to stop.
Borusan Contemporary
One of the most interesting art spaces in the city, inside Perili Köşk on the Bosphorus. The building and view are part of the visit. It is currently only open on weekends, so plan around that.
Sakıp Sabancı Museum
A little further north in Emirgan. The museum, garden and Bosphorus setting are all excellent. Check the temporary exhibition before you go.
Getting Around
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Take the Ferry
Whenever a ferry works for your route, take the ferry. One of the easiest is Karaköy to Kadıköy. Sit outside, get a tea and enjoy the ride. It is a much better way to cross the city than going underground.